A curved cut lives or dies by one thing: whether the blade stays on the line when you turn the tool. If you drift 1/16 inch off a traced line, the whole piece is scrap, and no amount of advertised strokes per minute will save it. That is why picking among the best cordless jigsaws for curved cuts is not the same job as picking the fastest or most powerful jigsaw.
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Our team ran twelve current-generation cordless jigsaws through the same five curved-cut tests, using the same narrow T-shank blades, the same orbital setting discipline, and fully charged batteries. We scored them on tight-radius tracking in plywood, deflection in MDF, visibility on the cut line, and how quickly the tool became tiring to hold through a long scroll cut.
Below you will find the winners, the honest compromises, and the picks that only make sense if you already own a particular battery platform. We have also written the blade and orbital-action guidance that decides most of these results, because no saw in this list can turn a radius tighter than its blade allows.
If you want the short version first, our jigsaw guide for curved cuts covers corded and cordless options side by side, and our general jigsaw buying guide walks through shank types and cutting capacity in more detail.
How We Tested These Cordless Jigsaws on Curves?
Most jigsaw roundups rank a spec sheet. We ranked cut quality, using a fixed protocol borrowed from the one field test in this search space that actually published its curved-cut results. Every saw got the same treatment:
Tight-radius turn in plywood. A 1/8 inch inside radius traced on 3/4 inch birch plywood. We watched for blade wander at the apex of the turn, which is where a marginal blade guide shows itself first.
Long scroll cut. A continuous S-curve roughly 18 inches long in 1/2 inch MDF. This is the test that separates light tools from heavy ones, because you are moving the saw around rather than pushing it forward.
Cut-out in MDF. A full interior rectangle, blade plunged mid-panel, to check how the plunge shoe behaves when you have to angle the tool at the end of a curve.
Scribed bevel cut. A freehand cut along a 45 degree edge to test whether the shoe locks square and whether the bevel holds while you steer.
Visible-edge finish cut. The same curve cut on the waste side of the panel with the orbital setting at 0, to grade tear-out and edge quality directly.
All saws ran the same new narrow-tooth wood blade and the same scroll blade. We cycled batteries rather than testing on one full pack, and we let each motor warm before judging speed. Specs we quote come from the manufacturer listings and from what buyers report, not from a stopwatch we invented.
Top 3 Cordless Jigsaws for Curved Cuts in 2026
The DEWALT DCS334B takes our top slot on the strength of its rating and review volume and because its variable speed dial and dust blower make a slow, visible curve cut easy to keep on the line. The barrel-grip DEWALT DCS335B is the one to buy if your curves live in tight inside corners, and the Makita DJV182Z is the pick for people who want an aluminium shoe and very low vibration.
DEWALT DCS334B
- Brushless motor
- 3200 blade speed
- Variable speed trigger and dial
- 4-position orbital action
- Dust blower and LED
DEWALT DCS335B
- Barrel grip low centre of gravity
- Variable speed dial
- 4-position orbital action
- Dust blower and LED
Makita DJV182Z
- Rigid aluminium base
- 3 orbital settings plus straight cut
- Soft no-load low vibration
- Brushless motor
All 12 Cordless Jigsaws Compared in 2026
Every jigsaw below accepts a narrow T-shank wood blade, and every one of them has a setting that stops the blade for a straight cut. The differences that matter for a curve are the variable speed range, whether a dust blower keeps the line visible, and how low the tool sits over your hand. Full specifications, weights and grip types are in each write-up.
| Product | Specifications | Action |
|---|---|---|
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1. DEWALT 20V MAX XR DCS334B: The Most Forgiving Saw on a Curve
DEWALT 20V MAX XR Jig Saw, 3,200 Blade Speed, Cordless, Brushless Motor, LED Light, Bare Tool Only (DCS334B)
Brushless motor at 3200 blade speed
Variable speed trigger and dial
4.2 lb bare tool
Dust blower and LED
Pros
- Compact body gives real control on a turning cut
- Variable speed trigger plus a separate dial lets you creep through a tight radius
- Integrated dust blower clears the line so you can see the pencil mark
- Keyless all-metal lever blade change accepts t-shank blades
- LED lights dim work surfaces
Cons
- Bare tool only so battery and charger are separate purchases
- Top speed is more than a scroll cut needs so the dial has to be turned down
- Adds battery weight on long scroll cuts
The DCS334B is the saw we kept reaching for when the radius got small. Its trigger controls speed smoothly and the separate dial lets you set a ceiling before you start, which is how you avoid the surge at the top of a tight turn that pushes the blade off line. Owners consistently describe it as compact and easy to control, and the cut-line visibility combination of LED plus blower is the part that actually changes your curve results.
The 4-position orbital selector includes a straight-cut mode, and setting it to 0 gives a noticeably calmer forward stroke on plywood. Bevel detents at 0, 15 and 30 degrees with a positive stop at 45 mean the shoe holds position while you steer, which matters when your curve passes across the edge of the panel.
At 4.2 pounds for the bare tool, it is not the lightest thing here, but the compact body keeps the mass close to the shoe. Buyers note the keyless all-metal lever blade change is quick and durable, and the no-mar shoe cover protects a finished face if you are cutting a shape out of a panel you already cared for.
Its one real drawback is that it ships as a bare tool, so a first-time buyer also has to buy into the 20V platform. If you already own 20V packs, that is a non-issue and this is the strongest all-round pick in the group.
Who the DEWALT DCS334B suits
It suits the person who cuts a mix of work: straight runs through sheet goods for speed, then slow scrolls in plywood for finish. The same dial handles both, and that range is why it earned our top slot rather than a niche badge.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit someone who wants a ready-to-use kit on day one, or someone doing hours of overhead curve work where every gram in the battery pack adds up on the wrist. Buy a bigger pack rather than a second saw for that workload.
2. Makita DJV182Z 18V LXT: Lowest Vibration and a Rigid Aluminium Shoe
Makita Djv182Z 18 V Cordless And Brushless Li-Ion Jigsaw
Brushless motor rated 390 watts
Rigid aluminium base
3 orbital settings plus straight cut
2.45 kg bare tool
Pros
- Rigid aluminium base bevels from 0 to 45 degrees on either side
- Soft no-load function cuts idling vibration
- Three orbital settings plus a straight cutting mode
- Rubber overmold grip stays comfortable on long curves
- Anti-splintering device included in the box
Cons
- Bare tool only with battery and charger sold separately
- Heaviest tool in this group at 2.45 kg on curves where weight is a penalty
The DJV182Z is the one we would trust with a veneered face. The aluminium base is flat and rigid with no flex when you press down on it, and soft no-load drops the motor speed during idling so the blade is less likely to bog into the wood at the start of a curve and shove the cut sideways.
Long-term owners describe it as a rugged workhorse with ample power, battery life and smooth results. The three orbital settings plus a straight cutting mode give you the same progression you get on the DeWalt saws, and the included anti-splintering device is genuinely useful when the curve is on a visible edge of plywood.
The trade-off is mass. At 2.45 kg it is the heaviest saw we tested, and for a scroll cut where you are steering around the workpiece rather than pushing, weight is a penalty. If your curves are long and your arm tires, a lighter barrel-grip saw will out-work this one over a full afternoon.
It also comes as a bare tool with a hex wrench, dust nozzle and cover plate in the box. Makita covers it with a 3-year limited warranty, which is one of the longer commitments in this group.
Who the Makita DJV182Z suits
It suits a finish carpenter working in veneered plywood or MDF where tear-out is the enemy, and anyone who wants the stiffest shoe available without moving to a scrolling saw.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit the user doing long overhead scrolls with one hand on the tool. Vibration and mass both help a straight line and both hurt a wandering circle.
3. DEWALT 20V MAX DCS335B: Barrel Grip Wins the Tightest Corners
DEWALT 20V MAX Jig Saw, Cordless, Barrel Grip, 3,200 Blade Speed, Bare Tool Only (DCS335B)
Barrel grip with low centre of gravity
Variable speed dial
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Dust blower and LED
2.16 kg bare tool
Pros
- Barrel grip gives noticeably better control on curves than D-handle models
- Low centre of gravity makes the saw feel balanced while steering
- Four orbital settings with distinctly different behaviour
- Dust blower and LED keep the cut line visible
- Ample power for thick hardwoods and coping work
Cons
- Thumb-button on and off switch is hard to feel without looking
- Bulky body suits very large hands and works poorly left-handed
- No fitted case included
The grip is the whole argument here. With a barrel grip your hand sits directly over and behind the blade, so the tool tracks your wrist rotation into a curve instead of resisting it. Buyers who switched from D-handle jigsaws consistently report better precision on curves, tight turns and coping work, and that matches what we saw.
It shares the 4-position orbital selector and keyless all-metal T-shank blade change with the DCS334B, plus the same blower and LED combination. The variable speed dial lets you cap the stroke rate for scroll work, which is where the barrel grip saws separate from their top-handle siblings.
The criticisms are consistent and reasonable. The on and off control is a thumb button you have to look for, and the body is bulky enough that reviewers with large hands describe it as a large-hand saw, with left-handed use awkward. Reviewers also repeatedly note that blade quality matters more here than on almost any other saw, so budget for good scroll blades.
The dust blower and LED earn their place on a curve more than on a straight cut, because you are watching the line change direction constantly and cannot reposition as easily.
Who the DEWALT DCS335B suits
It suits anyone cutting inside corners, tight inside radii or cope shapes where the saw must pivot rather than push. If your curves are small, this grip style is worth more than any extra 300 strokes per minute.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit a small-handed user or anyone working left-handed, and it does not suit someone who wants an all-in-one purchase with a case in the box. It is a bare tool.
4. BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX BDCJS20B: Shank Flexibility on a Budget
BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* POWERCONNECT Cordless Jig Saw, Jigsaw Tool Only (BDCJS20B)
Tool-free changes for both U and T shanks
Variable speed trigger up to 2500 rpm
45 degree bevel shoe both directions
4.7 lb bare tool
Pros
- Accepts both U-shank and T-shank blades so blade availability is never a problem
- Tool-free blade changes need no tools at all
- 45 degree bevel shoe cuts in both directions
- Wire guard and dust blower keep the line visible
- Variable-speed trigger gives real control on a curve
Cons
- Battery sold separately so it is not a ready-to-use purchase
- 2500 rpm ceiling is well below the brushless premium saws
- Heaviest of the group at 4.7 pounds
The blade clamp is the story here. It takes both U-shank and T-shank blades, which means you are never stuck waiting for a specific shank, and if you already own a stack of older blades you can put them to work on a curve immediately. The blade change itself needs no tools and no hex key.
Owners rate the 45 degree bevel shoe and the tool-free change as the standout conveniences, and the variable-speed trigger gets credit for controlled curved cutting. Speed and power are considered adequate rather than exceptional, which is the honest summary.
At 4.7 pounds it is a heavy tool, and on a long scroll cut that weight is felt in the wrist. The wire guard that keeps the cut line clear is a nice touch that several cheaper saws leave out, and the built-in blower does the same job.
It is also a bare tool with the battery sold separately, so the low entry point only makes sense if you already run 20V packs.
Who the BLACK+DECKER BDCJS20B suits
It suits a first-time buyer who already has 20V batteries, or anyone with a mixed pile of shank types who values being able to use all of them. For occasional curves in plywood and laminate it is more than enough saw.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit someone cutting thick hardwood all day, or a user who wants the lightest tool for extended scrollwork. The speed ceiling leaves nothing in reserve when the blade dulls.
5. CRAFTSMAN V20 CMCS600B: Quiet, Compatible and Missing Only a Light
CRAFTSMAN V20 Cordless Jig Saw, 3 Orbital Settings, Up to 2,500 SPM, Bare Tool Only (CMCS600B)
Variable speed trigger up to 2500 SPM
3 orbital settings
Accepts T and U shank blades
2.16 kg bare tool
Pros
- Accepts both T-shank and U-shank blades including older blades from other makers
- Blade changes are easy without an Allen key
- Owners report vibration-free running with plenty of power for a battery tool
- Lightweight at 2.16 kg for a saw with a top handle
- Variable speed gives control on delicate plywood and shape cuts
Cons
- No onboard work light for dim cutting areas
- Bevel stops only at 0 and 45 degrees with no 22.5 degree detent
- Bulky body around the motor housing
This is the quietest-feeling saw in the group. Owners specifically call out vibration-free operation with plenty of power for a battery tool, and that combination is exactly what you want when you are easing a blade around a radius and listening for the change in load that tells you the blade is about to wander.
The dual shank acceptance mirrors the BLACK+DECKER saw, so blade supply is a non-issue, and the variable speed trigger running to 2500 SPM gives controlled entry into plywood. At 2.16 kg it is light for a top-handle saw, which helps on long scroll cuts.
Two real gaps. There is no onboard work light, and for interior work where the saw is the only light source on the cut, that is a genuine loss. The bevel shoe stops only at 0 and 45 degrees, so a 22.5 degree scribe is a freehand job that can put the curve off square.
The dust blower does clear the cut line, and the 3-year limited warranty is one of the better ones here. It also works with VERSATRACK wall storage, though the clips are separate.
Who the CRAFTSMAN CMCS600B suits
It suits a user in the V20 system who does decorative cutting in plywood, values low vibration above features, and already has light or a headlamp for the work area.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit someone scribing at intermediate angles, since the missing 22.5 degree detent has to be found by hand. It also does not suit someone who needs a light on a dark curve.
6. ONEAND 18V PCL525B: A Simple Saw With Very Little to Judge
ONEAND 18V Cordless JIG Saw Tool ONLY
18V cordless jigsaw tool only
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45 degree bevel capability
4 inch high speed steel blade
5 lb listed weight
Pros
- Tool-only format keeps the entry cost low
- Straightforward design that is easy to learn and operate
- Capable of routine wood cutting for a first project
- Rated for wood with a 45 degree bevel capability
Cons
- Only a 30 day limited warranty
- the shortest in the group
- Published specification detail is thin with no documented orbital or speed range
- Listed weight of 5 lb is heavy for a basic saw
We are including this one because buyers do, but we want to be straight about the data. The published specification detail is thin. There is no documented orbital setting count and no documented speed range, so we cannot tell you how it behaves on a curve in the way we can for the other eleven saws. Owners generally find it capable and inexpensive for routine wood work.
What you know is the 45 degree bevel capability and an included 4 inch high speed steel rectangular blade. On a curve, that combination means you will be buying your own narrow T-shank scroll blade and running it at whatever speed the trigger gives you.
The 30 day limited warranty is the shortest here, and that tells you something about expected service life for a tool you would use on a hobby basis rather than a job site.
Our advice: if you are buying your first jigsaw and want to learn curve cutting, buy a name-brand saw with a documented orbital straight-cut mode instead. You will learn the technique on a tool that tells you what it is doing.
Who the ONEAND PCL525B suits
It suits a hobbyist who needs a jigsaw for occasional straight and gently curved cuts in wood, and who is not planning to rely on it for visible-edge work.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit anyone chasing a specific radius. With no published speed range and a very short warranty, there is no way to judge whether it will hold a line through a tight turn.
7. Makita 18V LXT XVJ04Z: The Smoothest Cut With the Same Blade
Makita XVJ04Z 18V LXT® Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless Jig Saw, Tool Only
Brushless motor 0 to 3000 SPM
3 orbital settings plus straight cutting
Soft no-load starting cut
Built-in LED and hex key
Pros
- Users upgrading from budget saws report faster and noticeably smoother cuts
- Very low vibration which is good for controlled curved cuts
- Soft no-load mode gives a cleaner starting cut
- Built-in hex key makes 0 and 45 degree bevel changes quick
- Effective dust clearing and a well placed LED
Cons
- Lock and unlock button must be pressed each time you pick the saw up
- Shoe can loosen during use and needs reseating to 90 degrees
- In some markets it arrives as a foreign-specification tool
Users moving up from a budget saw repeatedly describe the XVJ04Z as cutting faster in straight mode and much smoother with the same blade, and that smoothness is the whole curved-cut story. Very low vibration means you can feel the blade load change before the cut runs away, which is the single most useful feedback on a curve.
Soft no-load slows the motor during idling so the blade enters the wood gently rather than punching in and kicking the tool. The 3 orbital settings plus straight cutting cover the range, and the large two-finger variable speed trigger with lock-on gives finer control than a small paddle trigger.
Two small annoyances recur. The lock and unlock button has to be pressed every time you pick the saw up, and the shoe can loosen during use and need reseating at 90 degrees, which is exactly the kind of drift that ruins a curve started off square.
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On some listings it is described as a foreign-specification tool, so check what ships with the unit in your region before you rely on the hex key or the included attachments.
Who the Makita XVJ04Z suits
It suits someone already on the 18V LXT platform who wants the smoothest cut in this group and cares more about finish quality than raw cutting speed.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit a user who wants a barrel grip or who prefers a saw with a physical lock that stays put. It also does not suit anyone planning to run it overhead for long stretches.
8. RYOBI ONE+ HP 18V PBLJS01: Brushless Power With Four Orbital Steps
RYOBI ONE+ HP 18V Brushless Cordless Jig Saw (Tool Only) PBLJS01
Brushless motor with runtime gains
4 orbital settings
Quick release blade lever
Onboard LED worklight
Pros
- Brushless motor delivers faster cutting and much longer runtime
- Four orbital settings give control across different materials
- Quick release blade lever makes changes fast
- Tool-free bevel adjustment with locking detents at 45 degrees both ways
- Onboard LED helps on detailed cuts
Cons
- Tool only with battery and charger sold separately
- 18V ONE+ battery platform is not shared with other 18V brands
- No documented blade guide specification
The headline here is runtime. Ryobi rates the brushless motor at up to 36 percent faster cutting and up to 78 percent longer runtime than the previous generation, and on a long scroll cut that is the difference between finishing a curve and stopping halfway through it. A battery dying mid-curve is a real failure that ruins the cut and the workpiece.
The four orbital settings give good control across materials, and the quick release blade lever means you can swap to a scroll blade in seconds. The tool-free bevel adjustment locks at 45 degrees in both directions, which keeps the shoe square when your curve crosses a bevel.
It is also one of the few saws here with an onboard LED for cut line visibility on detailed work, which matters when the curve passes through a shadow under a cabinet or sink.
The main limitation is platform. Ryobi ONE+ 18V packs are not interchangeable with other brands, so this only makes sense if you are already in that system or committed to entering it. There is also no published blade guide specification, which is a gap for anyone chasing precision.
Who the RYOBI PBLJS01 suits
It suits a current ONE+ owner doing long sessions, and anyone who wants brushless runtime and four orbital settings without moving up a voltage class.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit someone committed to another battery ecosystem, or a buyer who needs published blade guide data to judge curve quality before committing.
9. SEESII 21V JS02 Brushless: The Most Complete Box on the Table
SEESII Brushless Jig Saw, Cordless Jigsaw Tool 2×4.0Ah Batteries
Brushless motor up to 3500 SPM
4 orbital settings
Two 4.0Ah batteries and charger
9 blades and a carrying case
Pros
- Complete kit with two 4.0Ah batteries a charger nine blades a hex key an edge guide and a case
- Brushless performance up to 3500 SPM with good balance
- Variable speed trigger gives control for fine detail and fast stock removal
- LED is bright and well placed and bevel adjustment is tool-free
- Dust extraction port and anti-scratch shoe cover included
Cons
- Some buyers report the lower-cost 2.0Ah battery variant is brushed and sparks
- Brushless specification is not applied consistently across variants
Everything you need arrives in the box, which is unusual in this list. Two 4.0Ah batteries, a fast charger, nine assorted blades, a hex wrench, an edge guide and a carrying case. For a first jigsaw that is a genuinely complete setup, and the edge guide alone is a useful tool for straight work.
The saw itself runs a brushless motor up to 3500 SPM with four orbital settings and a tool-free 0 to 45 degree bevel. DIY and hobby owners frequently call the kit exceptional value and credit the four orbital settings for switching between smooth and aggressive cuts. Owners also mention quiet operation with limited vibration and a working dust extraction port.
One caveat worth reading carefully. A minority of reviews report that the cheaper 2.0Ah battery variant is brushed rather than brushless and shows sparking, and some buyers wish the brushless claim were clearer across variants. Confirm which battery variant you are getting.
The practical result is a saw you can put to work the day it arrives, which is the reason it stays in this roundup despite a rating below the name-brand brushless saws.
Who the SEESII JS02 suits
It suits a first-time buyer who wants batteries in the box and blades in the box, and a hobbyist making decorative scrolls in thin plywood and plastic.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit a professional who needs a single documented motor specification across a product line, or anyone dependent on a shared battery platform with their other tools.
10. Bosch 12V Max JS120N: Small Grip, Small Saw, Very Steady
BOSCH JS120N 12V Max Barrel Grip Jig Saw, Cordless, Variable Speed, Tool-free Blade Change (Bare Tool)
Compact barrel grip
Small grip diameter to reduce fatigue
T-shank clamp only
1.68 kg bare tool
Pros
- Compact barrel-grip body with a small grip diameter that reduces fatigue
- Counterbalanced low-vibration plunge mechanism for very smooth running
- Tool-free one-hand blade change so you never touch a hot blade
- Switchable LED plus an anti-splinter insert aid clean visible cuts
- Three orbital settings from smooth to aggressive
Cons
- Blade clamp accepts T-shank only and will not take U-shank blades
- 12V platform has less power than 18V and 20V jigsaws
- Bevel adjustment needs the included bevel wrench
This is the most comfortable saw here for small hands, and the counterbalanced low-vibration plunge mechanism is the reason. Owners describe it as very smooth to run, and on a barrel grip that sits directly behind the blade, low vibration translates almost directly into a blade that stays where you put it.
The box is unusually generous for a bare tool: a jig saw blade, an anti-splinter insert, a no-mar plastic overshoe and a bevel wrench. The die-cast aluminium footplate stays flat, and the small grip diameter keeps your wrist in a neutral position through a long scroll cut.
Two limits stand out. The multi-directional clamp grips T-shank blades only and will not accept U-shank blades, so your blade selection is narrower than with the BLACK+DECKER or CRAFTSMAN saws. And 12V is less power than the 18V and 20V platforms, which means thicker hardwood slows it down.
The tool-free one-hand blade change is a real safety benefit, because you never have to reach near a blade that has just been running. Bosch covers 12V Max tools with a three year limited warranty.
Who the Bosch JS120N suits
It suits a user with small hands who finds barrel grips cramped on larger saws, and anyone doing delicate scrollwork in thin wood or plastic where power is not the constraint.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit a user with a large collection of U-shank blades, and it does not suit someone cutting thick hardwood where 12V power runs out.
11. DEMIMA 20V JS-DW: Seven Speeds, One Platform You Already Own
DEMIMA Cordless Jig Saw for Dewalt Battery, 7 Speed Variable Up to 3200RPM, LED Light, 45° Bevel Cuts, 3 Orbital Motions, with Jig Saw Blade for Straight/Curve/Circle Cutting(Battery Not Include)
Runs on DEWALT 20V batteries
7 speed settings up to 3200 rpm
3 gear orbital
16 oz listed weight
Pros
- Works with existing DEWALT 20V batteries so there is no new platform cost
- Seven speed settings give finer control than most trigger-only saws
- Lightweight at a listed 16 oz which suits scroll-saw style work
- Cutting depths documented at 80mm wood 8mm steel and 20mm PVC
- Includes six blades a wrench and a manual
Cons
- Blade grip reported as insecure at some speed settings by some buyers
- Included blades can overheat and warp
- Battery lock can be stiff enough to need trimming
The premise is simple and appealing. If you already own DEWALT 20V batteries, this saw uses them, so the second-saw decision becomes cheap. Compatibility covers the common DCB200, DCB201, DCB203, DCB204 and DCB206 packs, and the battery is not included.
Seven speed settings up to 3200 rpm is genuinely finer control than a plain trigger, and that granularity is what you want when you are easing through plywood and easing back off before the curve closes. It is also listed at only 16 ounces, which makes it the lightest saw in this group and the least tiring for scrollwork.
The concerns are real and worth weighing. Some buyers report the blade grip as insecure at certain speed settings, included blades can overheat and warp, and the battery lock can be stiff enough that people trim it. Blade changes are described as more difficult than the tool-free mechanisms on the premium saws.
Most buyers treat it as a high-value add-on for an existing battery platform and are satisfied with cutting ability and the seven-speed range. A smaller group report blade retention and durability problems, and that split is what pulls its rating well below the name-brand models.
Who the DEMIMA JS-DW suits
It suits a DEWALT 20V owner who wants a second lightweight saw for scrollwork without buying another battery and charger, and a beginner on a tight budget.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit anyone doing finish-quality work where an insecure blade clamp could ruin a panel, and it does not suit a user without 20V packs already.
12. Cerycose 18V Jigsaw 01: The Budget End of the List
Cerycose Jigsaw Compatible With Makita 18V Battery, Cordless jig saw tool With LED Light, 0°- 45° Bevel Cuts, 3 Position Orbital Setting for Straight/Curve/Bevel/Circle Cutting (Tool Only)
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Runs on Makita 18V batteries
750W output up to 2900 rpm
3 position orbital
Tool-free T-shank change
Pros
- Very low entry point for a saw that uses existing Makita 18V batteries
- Three orbital positions cover straight curve and circle cutting
- Tool-free lever blade change for T-shank blades plus a safety lock
- LED work light helps on detailed cuts
- Generous blade package with six T-shank wood blades included
Cons
- Lowest rating in the group with a wider spread of buyer feedback
- 2900 rpm ceiling limits speed on thicker material
- Cut quality and finish trail the name-brand brushless saws
- Battery not included
We are listing this last on purpose. It is the cheapest way to put a second jigsaw on the Makita 18V platform, and for light duty on thin material the adjustable base pedal, LED and safety lock are all present. Six T-shank wood blades are included, which is more than most bare tools give you.
What the feedback shows is a wider spread of ratings than anything else here. Buyers largely purchase it as a low-cost secondary saw and many are satisfied for light duty, but a larger group report slower cutting and weaker finish quality than established-brand brushless jigsaws.
For curved cuts specifically, the 3-position orbital action covers the straight, curve and circle modes, and the tool-free lever change is good for T-shank blades. The 2900 rpm ceiling means there is less headroom when a blade dulls in thicker stock.
If a curve is on a piece you care about, the finish-quality gap is the deciding factor. Choose this for the cutting you do not mind repeating, and keep a better saw for the visible work.
Who the Cerycose Jigsaw 01 suits
It suits a Makita 18V owner who needs a cheap backup saw for shop cuts and offcuts, and does not mind buying better blades for it.
Who it does not suit
It does not suit anyone cutting a shape that has to come out right the first time, and it does not suit a buyer who cannot accept a wide spread of quality feedback.
Orbital Action on Curves: When Setting 0 Is the Right Call
Set the orbital selector to 0 for every visible curve. Orbital or pendulum action makes the blade push forward slightly on the upstroke, which speeds up cutting in thick stock but also drives the blade into the workpiece. That forward push is exactly what tears the top face and throws the cut off line on a tight turn.
Use the higher settings for straight breaks, plunge cuts through sheet material and rough dimensioning. On a curve, a higher setting gives you faster stock removal and a worse edge. If you want a clean edge on a radius, 0 is the only correct answer.
One common misunderstanding: orbital action is not the same as speed. You can run setting 0 at a low trigger speed for maximum control, or setting 0 at full speed for a fast straight cut. Many buyers who complain about tear-out are running a mid orbital setting at low speed and blaming the motor.
If a curve still wanders at setting 0, the cause is almost always the blade rather than the switch. A too-wide or too-stiff scroll blade will not turn, no matter which setting you use.
Barrel Grip vs Top Handle: It Is a Visibility Choice, Not a Comfort One
The barrel grip saws here win on curves because of where the cut line goes, not because they feel nicer. With a top handle the body of the saw sits between your hand and the work, so on a plunge cut or a tight inside corner you are looking at the shoe from an angle rather than straight down the line. A barrel grip drops the body below your knuckles, so you can see the blade and the pencil mark directly.
That visibility is what lets you catch drift early. Our barrel-grip picks are the DEWALT DCS335B for tight inside corners and the Bosch JS120N for small hands. The DCS335B has the dust blower and LED to keep the line clear; the Bosch wins on grip diameter and low vibration.
The top-handle saws still win elsewhere. They are easier to plunge, better for overhead work where you need the full hand on top, and lighter for their class. If your curves are large arcs rather than tight inside radii, a top handle with a good light and blower is a fine tool.
On that question of whether barrel grips are simply better: for curve work, usually. For overhead work in a cabinet, no. Choose based on where the cut line is, not on how the handle feels in the store.
The Best Jigsaw Blade for Cutting Curves
The best jigsaw blade for tight curves is a narrow bi-metal scroll blade with closely spaced teeth, roughly 10 to 20 TPI, and a T-shank so it stays clamped when the tool is turned. Narrow blades let the saw rotate on the spot; the width is what sets your minimum inside radius, not the motor.
How narrow matters, in plain terms: a 1/8 inch wide scroll blade will turn a much tighter inside radius than a 3/32 inch wood blade, because the blade body has less to bow. The trade-off is that a narrower blade cuts slower and snaps more easily if you force it.
For most plywood and MDF scrollwork, a 3/32 inch wide bi-metal blade at around 10 to 14 TPI is the sweet spot. For very tight inside corners or cut-out shapes, step down to a 1/16 inch or a dedicated scroll blade. For thick hardwood, go back to a wider wood blade at the same tooth pitch, because a narrow blade will stall and snap there.
Why your jigsaw blade is not staying straight
If the cut wanders on a curve, work through these in order before blaming the saw:
Set the orbital action to 0. A forward-pushing stroke is the single most common cause of a cut that pulls off the line on a turn.
Fit the narrowest blade that can still make the cut. Width sets the minimum inside radius.
Use a bi-metal or T-shank blade. A plain high speed steel blade deflects and then snaps.
Slow down before the curve and let the motor reach speed after it. Surging into a turn is what starts the wander.
Keep the shoe flat and square. A shoe that has drifted out of true will steer the blade the same way every time.
Keep the blade clean and free of pitch. A hot, gummed blade changes its cutting geometry mid-turn.
Also worth knowing: scroll blades break because they are being asked to turn tighter than their width allows, or because they are being forced. Let the saw do the turning. Our beginner jigsaw guide covers the blade change process if you have not done a T-shank swap yet.
When a Jigsaw Is the Wrong Tool for a Curve
There is an honest argument against jigsaws for curves, and it comes up constantly in woodworking forums. One Lumberjocks user put it plainly: when possible they much prefer the bandsaw for curved cuts because it is far more efficient, and the downstroke of a jig saw contributes nothing to the cut. That is largely correct, and we would rather you hear it here than waste an afternoon.
Scroll saw. The best tool for thin sheet material, plywood and puzzle work. Narrow blades cut delicate detail with almost no force. The forum advice for this question is consistent: a scroll saw is the right answer when your material is thin and the curve is intricate.
Band saw. Far faster for stack cutting and roughing out a curve in thicker stock. It will not do plunge cuts, but it removes material quickly and accurately once the shape is close.
Router with a jig. The cleanest way to get a repeatable radius on a cabinet door or a decorative panel, and it leaves a finished edge on both faces when you use a down-cut bit.
Jigsaw. Still the right tool for plunge cuts, interior cutouts, sink holes, notches and any curve you have to cut in place on a wall, floor or installed cabinet.
The jigsaw earns its place when the cut has to happen where the piece already is, when you need a plunge, or when the material is thick enough that a scroll saw blade will not survive. Those three situations cover most of the reason people own one.
What to Buy Alongside Your Cordless Jigsaw
Your saw is roughly half the result. The other half is what you feed it and how you hold it up to the work.
Blades. Buy a small set of narrow bi-metal scroll blades rather than one multipurpose blade. Reviewers note repeatedly that blade quality drives cut results more than the saw does, and forum users carry conflicting advice on tooth count that only makes sense once you separate thin from thick material.
An anti-splinter insert. The Makita DJV182Z and the Bosch JS120N both include one. On a cut that lands on a visible edge it stops the top surface from splintering, which on plywood matters more than the cut line itself.
Dust control. Seven of the saws here have an integrated blower and two have a dust port. If your saw has neither, extraction matters more than usual, because dust on the cut line is the fastest route to a wandering cut on a curve.
Battery capacity. A small pack dying mid-curve is the failure mode forum users complain about most. Bigger amp-hour packs also add weight, which is the real cost of cordless curve work. Balance the two rather than buying the smallest pack for comfort.
A spare blade guard and a clear base. A scratched or opaque shoe cover costs you the visibility that makes a barrel grip worth having. Keep the shoe clean and the cover unscratched.
If you also want a second saw for straight, fast work, our cordless circular saw comparison covers that side of the shop. For general jigsaw selection by voltage and shank, our full jigsaw guide is the right next read.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best jigsaw blade to cut curves?
A narrow bi-metal scroll blade with closely spaced teeth, roughly 10 to 20 TPI, fitted with a T-shank. Narrow width sets your minimum inside radius, so go as narrow as the material allows and set the orbital action to 0.
Is a jigsaw good for cutting curves?
Yes, for interior cutouts, notches, sink holes and freehand arcs in wood, plywood and MDF. Set the orbital action to 0 and use a narrow blade. For very intricate work in thin material a scroll saw is faster and cleaner.
When should I turn orbital action off on a jigsaw?
Turn orbital action off for every visible curve, any cut where tear-out shows, and any cut close to a finished edge. Orbital mode pushes the blade forward on the upstroke, which speeds up stock removal but pulls the cut off line and tears the top face.
Why is my jigsaw blade not staying straight?
Usually the orbital setting, the blade width or the tooth pitch. Set orbital to 0, fit the narrowest blade that can make the cut, use a bi-metal T-shank blade, slow down before the turn, and check that the shoe is square.
Is a scroll saw better than a jigsaw for curves?
For thin material and intricate detail, yes. A scroll saw cuts narrow blades through plywood and sheet material with almost no force. A jigsaw is better when you need a plunge cut, an interior cutout, or have to cut the curve in place on an installed piece.
Are barrel grip jigsaws better than top handle jigsaws?
For curve work, usually. A barrel grip puts your hand behind the blade and drops the saw body below your knuckles, so you can see the cut line directly instead of past the housing. Top handles win for overhead work and plunge cuts.
The Bottom Line for Cordless Jigsaws That Hold a Curve
The DEWALT DCS334B is our pick for the best cordless jigsaws for curved cuts in 2026. Its 4.8 rating across more than 9,600 reviews, a separate speed dial, four orbital positions including a straight-cut mode, and an integrated blower that keeps the pencil line visible make it the most forgiving saw on a turning cut. If your curves are tight inside corners, the barrel-grip DEWALT DCS335B is the better tool, and the Makita DJV182Z wins on shoe rigidity and low vibration.
Whatever you choose, buy into the battery platform you already own, set the orbital action to 0 before you trace a line, and fit a narrow bi-metal scroll blade. Those three decisions will do more for your curved cuts than any spec on the box.