Plywood punishes cheap table saw blades. The factory blade that came with your saw was designed for framing lumber, so it shears into the cross-grain core first and then rips the ultra-thin face veneer apart on the way out. That is tear-out, and on a full sheet of birch or maple it can cost you the whole panel.
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The fix is a dedicated 60-to-80 tooth blade with a Hi-ATB grind and a low or zero hook angle. Those teeth shear the face veneer instead of levering it off, which is why the best table saw blades for plywood in this roundup all share that general shape, even though they differ in kerf width and price tier. We compared ten of them across tooth count, grind, kerf, plate thickness and coating, then broke them down by the saw you actually own.
Two other details decide whether a cut is clean or merely passable. A zero-clearance insert cut to match your kerf removes the split in the table surface that causes bottom-side chipping, and a sharp, correctly tensioned blade matters more than tooth count. Sharpening is a separate question: a high-bevel plywood blade can be restored, but the steep points wear down faster than a standard ATB, so plan on a sharpening cycle rather than expecting a forever blade. If you have not chosen a saw yet, our guide to the best table saws for cutting plywood covers the riving knife and fence setups that matter for sheet goods.
What follows is a spec-first roundup. Every blade below is written for the material it is actually good at, including the ones that are not specialist plywood cutters but handle sheet goods far better than their price suggests.
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WEN BL1080 80-Tooth Finish Blade
- 80 carbide teeth
- Ultra-thin 1/10 inch kerf
- 6000 RPM rating
Every Blade in This Roundup at a Glance
Read the tooth count and grind columns together, because they tell you more than the brand name does. Kerf width is the column most people check too late, once they have already built a sled or a full-width rip fence that has to match.
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1. WEN BL1080 80-Tooth Finish Blade for Plywood and Sheet Goods
WEN BL1080 10-Inch 80-Tooth Carbide-Tipped Ultra-Fine Finish Professional Woodworking Saw Blade for Miter Saws and Table Saws
10 inch diameter
5/8 inch arbor
80 carbide teeth
0.1 inch ultra-thin kerf
Pros
- Very clean cuts with minimal tear-out on plywood and hardwoods
- Well balanced and quiet with low vibration
- Sharp carbide teeth that hold up over many sheets
- Strong value against premium-brand blades
Cons
- One owner reported slight run-out
- Can bog down a little in wet or treated material
This is the blade I keep reaching for when a job is plywood and the saw is whatever is in the corner of the shop. Eighty carbide teeth at a 0.1 inch kerf is a very specific combination, and it works: the high tooth count makes a lot of small slicing cuts, and the thin kerf keeps the load light enough that a modest saw does not bog down. Over more than sixteen hundred reviews it holds a 4.7 average, and it is the most-reviewed blade in this roundup by a wide margin.
The thin kerf also means less material lost per cut, which adds up when you are breaking down full sheets. The plate is thin too, so it deflects less under load than a heavy plate, and owners consistently report quiet running and very little vibration. On a cabinet saw with a well-tuned insert, the top face of the panel comes out close to tape-free.
What you give up is edge durability on abrasive material. Eighty teeth means small gullets, and small gullets fill up faster when you are cutting construction-grade CDX or anything with a lot of sand in the outer plies. Keep this blade for finish plywood and face veneers. If most of your cutting is rough sheet goods, a 40-tooth general-purpose blade will outlast it several times over.
The one complaint that appears repeatedly is behaviour in wet or treated material, where owners note the blade can bog a low-amperage saw. Dry interior plywood is what this blade is built for, so that is not a deal-breaker for cabinet or furniture work. The occasional run-out report is also worth checking against your own saw: an out-of-true arbor will make a good blade look bad, so verify the blade is flat on a flat surface before blaming the steel.
Who this blade suits
Anyone whose first blade upgrade is a straight swap from a factory blade and wants a visible improvement on the first sheet. It is also the safest recommendation for a 15-amp jobsite saw, because the thin kerf and modest plate keep motor load down. For cut-quality work, pair it with a zero-clearance insert cut to a 0.1 inch slot, which is the single biggest factor in bottom-edge chipping.
Who should skip it
Skip it if your volume is mostly rough construction plywood, or if you are planning dado stacks and grooves. An 80-tooth ultra-fine finish pattern is built for crosscutting veneer, and its gullets will clog far sooner than a 40-tooth frame. If you need one blade to do everything on site, look at the CMT combination blade later in this list instead.
2. DEWALT DWA11080 80-Tooth Fine Finish Blade for Crosscut Sheet Goods
DEWALT Table Saw Blade, 10 inch, 80 Tooth, Fine Finish, Ultra Sharp Carbide (DWA11080)
10 inch diameter
80 teeth
Carbide
Optimized tooth geometry
Pros
- Clean smooth cuts on plywood and hardwood trim
- Stays sharp across multiple projects
- Tracks well and runs quietly
- Good value for the specification
Cons
- One owner reported more sawdust blowing back onto the table
- Edge longevity seen as shorter than premium blades
This blade carries the highest average rating in the group at 4.8 across more than fourteen hundred reviews, and it earns it with less fuss than most. The design centres on optimized tooth geometry and a patented body slot pattern cut into the plate to control vibration. In practice owners describe cuts that are accurate on plywood, hardwood and trim, with a blade that tracks well and stays quiet at speed.
Where the DEWALT separates itself from the WEN is the manufacturer claim of up to three times the blade life of a conventional design. We would not quote that number as a promise, but the review pattern is consistent with it: people running this through project after project report the edge still being there at the end. If you are buying one blade and want it to last, this is a reasonable bet.
It is worth being clear about what this is not. It is an 80-tooth fine finish blade, not a specialist plywood cutter with a named Hi-ATB plywood grind, so on very thin decorative veneer you will still want tape or a scoring pass. The tooth pattern is optimized for accuracy and finish across a range of woods rather than for maximum tear-out resistance in one material.
Two minor negatives appear in the reviews. A few users report sawdust blowing back onto the table more than they expected, which is really a function of how much chip is being thrown and how your dust collection is staged. One reviewer also felt the edge did not last as long as a premium blade they had used before. Neither issue affected the cut quality ratings, and the noise and tracking reports are overwhelmingly positive.
Who this blade suits
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Shoppers who want a single blade for crosscutting sheet goods, solid wood trim and general finish work, and who value a strong review base over exotic specifications. It pairs naturally with a table saw that has a clean, well-tuned insert. It is also a good second blade to keep on hand so your plywood blade is not the one that picks up the stray screw from a demolition job.
Who should skip it
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Skip it if you cut veneered plywood for visible furniture panels every week and cannot afford rework. In that case the two Freud plywood blades in this roundup have a grind designed specifically for that job. It is also a heavier-duty plate than the WEN BL1080, so on a very small saw the lighter blade may simply spin up more freely.
3. Forrest Woodworker II 40-Tooth ATB Combination Blade for Glue-Line Rip and Crosscut Work
Forrest WW10407125 Woodworker II 10-Inch 40 Tooth ATB .125 Kerf Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor
10 inch diameter
40 teeth
0.125 inch kerf
30 degree ATB
Pros
- Glue-ready glass-like cuts in birch and mahogany ply
- Quiet running with little or no sanding
- Carbide teeth resist chipping over years
- Manufacturer lifetime resharpen and rebalance
Cons
- ATB pattern leaves a non-flat kerf unsuitable for dados
- Heavy plate needs a reasonably powerful saw
- Wide kerf wastes more material per cut
The Woodworker II is the blade people end up with when they stop shopping and start accumulating tools. It is a 40-tooth, 30 degree ATB combination blade with a 0.125 inch kerf and a 5/8 inch arbor, and it is not a plywood specialist by name. In practice owners use it on birch ply, mahogany ply, maple, pine and red oak and describe the results as glue-ready and glass-like, with no sanding needed on the visible face.
The kerf is the reason it saves material. Forrest claims the 0.125 inch kerf saves a third of the wood loss per cut against a full-kerf blade, which matters if you are ripping a stack of cabinet sides. The blade also reduces kickback, which gives you better pull control on long rips, and it eliminates bottom splintering on radial crosscuts. It is 2.2 pounds, and you feel that weight only on an underpowered saw.
The service side is genuinely a differentiator. Forrest offers resharpening and rebalancing through the manufacturer, so a 40-tooth combination blade is a long-term tool rather than a consumable. For someone with a small shop cutting a lot of sheet goods over years, that changes the effective cost math completely compared with a disposable blade.
The limitations are structural. A 40-tooth ATB leaves a non-flat kerf, which rules out dados and slots that have to accept another piece, and the 0.125 inch kerf is wide enough that a flush-cutting or glue-line jig built for a thin-kerf blade will not fit. On a low-horsepower saw the thick plate adds load, which is the most common complaint in the opposite direction from the plywood specialists.
Who this blade suits
Woodworkers doing mixed work: ripping solid wood, crosscutting sheet goods and cutting plywood for cabinet boxes in the same session. It is the blade to buy if you want one answer for most problems and value the option to have it resharpened. It also handles rough exterior-grade sheet goods far better than an 80-tooth finish blade, because the gullets are much deeper.
Who should skip it
Skip it if your panels are decorative birch or maple that will be seen edge to edge, and you are unwilling to sand or fill. An 80-tooth Hi-ATB blade will leave a cleaner face on that material. It is also the wrong choice for a 15-amp jobsite saw, where a 0.125 inch kerf at 40 teeth is a lot of wood to ask a small motor to remove.
4. CMT 256.050.10 4+1 ATB Combination Blade for Versatile Sheet and Solid Wood Work
CMT Orange Tools 256.050.10 – Combination Saw Blade D=10 B=5/8 ß=4 ATB 15 + 1 FLAT K=0.102 P=0.071 a=15
10 inch diameter
50 teeth with one flat
0.102 inch kerf
15 degree hook
Pros
- Well balanced and quiet with smooth glue-line rips and crosscuts
- Handles plywood and melamine scraps easily
- Can be professionally resharpened many times
Cons
- One owner reported running out of true
- traced to the saw arbor
- Splintering on thin veneer crosscuts unless taped
This is the most interesting blade in the roundup for anyone who needs grooves as well as crosscuts. CMT fits 50 teeth, but the pattern is 4+1: four alternate-top-bevel teeth plus one flat-ground tooth that runs the full height of the blade. That flat tooth shears the bottom of the kerf flat, which is exactly what you need for flat-bottom dados and rabbets, and most plywood blades on the market cannot do it.
Everything else about the design is aimed at versatility. The 0.102 inch kerf is thin enough to save material and reduce motor load, the 15 degree hook angle is a real positive rake that helps the blade cut smoothly, and the plate is 0.071 inch, so it is light at 1.7 pounds. Chrome plating and laser-cut heat-expansion slots keep it stable as it heats up, which is why owners describe it as quiet and well balanced.
The catch is that this is a combination blade, not a plywood specialist. Owners report that on very thin-veneer plywood crosscuts it can still splinter unless you tape the cut line, which is the behaviour you would expect from a general 15 degree hook rather than a zero or low hook. If the panel is going to be visible, tape is a thirty-second fix and worth doing anyway.
One reviewer reported the blade running out of true, then traced the problem to the saw arbor rather than the blade. That is a common and useful diagnostic: if a new blade wobbles, check the arbor and the blade flange before returning the blade. CMT also supports professional resharpening, so like the Forrest this is a tool you can restore rather than replace.
Who this blade suits
Cabinetmakers and furniture builders who cut plywood boxes, solid wood and occasional melamine, and who need flat-bottom grooves without carrying a second blade. The thin kerf also makes it a comfortable choice for a mid-power contractor saw. It is our value recommendation for anyone who wants one blade for everything short of show-face veneer.
Who should skip it
Skip it if the top face of the plywood is the finished face and you will not tape it. The positive hook trades a little tear-out resistance for cut speed and finish, which is the right trade for solid wood and the wrong one for fragile face veneer. If visible panel quality is the priority, choose an 80-tooth Hi-ATB instead.
5. Freud LU80R010 80-Tooth Hi-ATB Blade for Cabinet-Grade Plywood and Melamine
Freud LU80R010: 10″ Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Blade
80 teeth
Hi-ATB grind
2 degree hook
0.126 inch kerf
Pros
- Splinter-free chip-free cuts on plywood and melamine
- Very quiet with almost no vibration
- Stays sharp on veneered and prefinished panels
- Reduces the need for tape on the top face
Cons
- ATB geometry will not cut flat-bottomed grooves
- Not intended as a ripping or non-through-cutting blade
This is the blade the forum consensus points to when someone asks for the best table saw blade for fine veneered plywood, and it is easy to see why. Eighty teeth with a Hi-ATB grind and a 2 degree hook angle means the tooth almost shears vertically into the panel, cutting the face veneer off cleanly before the rest of the tooth levers the waste out. Across FineWoodworking, Sawmill Creek and Reddit threads this model keeps coming up as the reference for cabinet-grade stock.
The plate is 0.087 inch and the kerf 0.126 inch, which is heavier than the thin-kerf options here. That is deliberate: a stiffer plate holds its edge geometry under the load of a full sheet, and the TiCo hi-density carbide blend is specified for long edge retention in engineered wood. Laser-cut anti-vibration slots damp sideways movement, and the Perma-Shield coating keeps pitch and resin from glazing the flutes.
Owners describe the result as close to factory finished, with quiet operation and edges that look machined rather than cut. Several note that they no longer tape the top face of the panel before breaking it down, which is the clearest practical measure of a tear-out blade. The melamine and laminated panel performance is strong for the same reason the plywood performance is.
Two honest limitations. First, the ATB grind leaves a sharp peak on the bottom of the kerf, so it will not produce a flat-bottomed groove or dado. Second, this is a crosscut blade: it is not meant for ripping or non-through cutting, and forcing it into a rip job is how carbide points get destroyed. The 0.126 inch kerf is also more than a small jobsite saw comfortably drives through a full sheet.
Who this blade suits
Anyone cutting birch, maple or veneered plywood for cabinet doors, visible panels or furniture, where a chip on the face means sanding or filling. It is our pick for shops doing melamine and prefinished panels as well. If you own a mid-power or larger saw, this is the blade to buy and leave installed as your dedicated plywood cutter.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you work on a 15-amp jobsite saw, where the kerf and plate are heavy; take the Freud LU79R010 instead. Also skip it if you need dados, rabbets or flush cuts in the same session, because the geometry works against you. And if your volume is measured in hundreds of linear feet per week, read the sharpening economics before committing, because Hi-ATB points wear faster than a standard ATB.
6. Freud LU79R010 Thin Kerf Hi-ATB Blade for Plywood on Lower-Powered Saws
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Freud Thin Kerf Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Saw Blade with Premium Tico Hi-Density Carbide Crosscutting Blend for Maximum Performance – 10″ Diameter, 80 Teeth – LU79R010
80 teeth
Hi-ATB grind
Thin kerf
Premium TiCo carbide
Pros
- Exceptionally smooth chip-free cuts with no burn marks
- Stays sharp after hundreds of feet of cutting
- Easy to push through sheet goods
- Can be resharpened and restored
Cons
- Bottom chip-out can occur without a good insert plate
- ATB grind will not produce a flat-bottomed kerf
The LU79R010 is the same 80-tooth Hi-ATB concept as the LU80R010, built on a thinner kerf, and that single change makes it the right answer for a lot of 15-amp jobsite saws. Owners on Harbor Freight and Metabo-class saws report that a thin kerf plywood blade avoids the motor bog-down they get with full-kerf premium blades, and the 2 degree hook means the blade pulls through sheet goods rather than fighting them.
Cut quality is where it matches its full-kerf sibling. Reviewers describe smooth, chip-free cuts on plywood and melamine with no burn marks, and many report the edge still cutting well after hundreds of feet of use. The TiCo carbide blend and laser-cut anti-vibration slots serve the same purpose here, and the Perma-Shield coating keeps pitch off the flutes through long runs.
The most common complaint in the reviews is bottom-side chip-out, and the most common explanation is also the most useful: a zero-clearance insert cut to match the thin kerf. If your insert still has the factory opening or a slot wider than the blade, the bottom edge of the panel will break out no matter how good the blade is. Fit the insert and the complaint largely disappears.
The ATB kerf is not flat-bottomed, so this blade shares the dado limitation with the other Hi-ATB designs. It is also a crosscut-only tool. If you are building a table saw setup where the same blade handles rips, you will want a separate rip blade, and a scoring blade on the opposite side of the table is a legitimate alternative for panel work.
Who this blade suits
Hobbyists and site builders on small table saws who still want a genuine tear-out blade rather than a compromise. If your saw is 15-amp and you break down birch or maple ply, this is the honest recommendation. It also works well on melamine and laminates, and it is a sensible second blade for anyone who already owns a full-kerf plywood cutter.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you need flat-bottom dados, and skip it if you are doing a lot of ripping, because the geometry is not built for it. If your main problem is a saw that will not start cleanly on a full sheet, fix the riving knife and the insert before buying anything; a blade will not solve a saw that is not set up for sheet goods. Our guide to table saw angle finders covers the setup checks worth doing first.
7. WEN BL1040C Apex 40-Tooth General-Purpose Blade for Rough Sheet Goods
Pros
- Cuts smoothly and easily through plywood and dimensional lumber
- Fits common 10 inch table saws and miter saws
- Cool-Cut coating limits friction and workpiece burn
Cons
- One reviewer reported blade flex and kickback on a miter saw
- Not a glue-line-quality edge
- Very few reviews so long-term durability is unclear
The Apex series is the odd one out in this roundup: forty teeth and an ATB grind, so it is a general-purpose framing blade rather than a finish blade. That is a deliberate choice for anyone cutting construction-grade plywood and dimensional lumber on a budget. With deep gullets and a 0.1 inch kerf it moves material quickly, and the high carbon steel plate with carbide tips gives it more bite than a pure steel blade on nail-laced stock.
Two features are aimed at the cut quality problem rather than cutting speed. The Cool-Cut coating is non-abrasive and is intended to reduce friction and prevent burn marks on the workpiece, and the laser-cut silencing and stabilizing vents are there to control vibration, noise and heat. The blade is 0.88 kg and rated to 6000 RPM on a 5/8 inch arbor.
Be aware of what the review base does and does not tell you. There are 42 reviews on this blade against more than a thousand for several others here, so the long-term picture is genuinely undocumented, and one reviewer reported the blade flexing side to side with kickback in a miter saw. Treat that as a flag to check your flange and arbor rather than a general verdict, but it is also a reminder that this is a general-purpose blade, not a precision one.
For visible panel work, upgrade rather than adjust. The cut quality is described as clean, not glue-line, and a first pass through softwood can leave a small burn mark. If you need a show-face edge, put an 80-tooth blade in the saw for that cut. This blade is for the sheets that will be hidden inside a wall or under a countertop.
Who this blade suits
Beginners replacing a dull factory blade, and anyone cutting CDX or similar rough sheet goods where edge quality does not matter but feed rate does. The low tooth count and thin kerf keep the load manageable on small saws. It is a sensible sacrificial blade to have installed while you keep a quality finish blade in its case.
Who should skip it
Skip it for birch, maple or veneered plywood that will be seen, because a 40-tooth ATB will leave a fuzzier exit edge than any 80-tooth option in this list. With only 42 reviews behind it, it is also not the blade we would build a long-term sharpening plan around. Buy a finish blade and keep this as the rough-cut companion.
8. Freud LU88R010 60-Tooth Thin Kerf Blade for Solid Wood Crosscut Work
Freud LU88R010: 10″ Thin Kerf Fine Finish Crosscut Blade
60 teeth
0.090 inch kerf
15 degree hook
ATB grind
Pros
- Thin kerf wastes less material and reduces motor load
- Positive hook supports a faster feed rate
- Perma-Shield coating resists pitch build-up
- Fits standard 10 inch saws with 5/8 inch arbor
Cons
- A general fine-finish crosscut design
- not specialised for very thin veneers
The thinnest kerf of any full-size blade in this roundup makes the LU88R010 interesting for two separate reasons. It wastes the least material per cut, and at 0.090 inch with a 0.071 inch plate it is the easiest blade here to push through a full sheet on a smaller motor. If kerf accuracy matters because you have built a sled or a thin-kerf fence, this is the blade to match it to.
What it is, though, is a fine-finish crosscut blade with a 15 degree positive hook, not a plywood specialist. That positive rake is the reason the cuts are smooth and the feed rate is fast, and it is also the reason it does not chase a 60-tooth blade into very thin veneer. Owners regard it as a versatile crosscutter for solid wood and general finish work, and the TiCo carbide blend with Perma-Shield coating handles edge retention well.
At 1.7 pounds it is comfortable in the hand and at speed, and the 5/8 inch arbor means it fits the same saws as everything else here. For a shop that does solid wood trim and only occasional sheet goods, this is a very well-matched blade. It simply is not the answer to the question this article is mostly about.
Who this blade suits
Woodworkers doing crosscut-heavy solid wood work who also rip and break down the occasional sheet, and who want minimal material loss per cut. The thin kerf is a genuine advantage on a small saw. It also works as a secondary blade that frees a specialist plywood blade from general crosscut duty and keeps its points sharper for longer.
Who should skip it
Skip it for decorative face veneer, and skip it if your project needs a flat-bottomed dado, since the ATB grind leaves a non-flat kerf. The 60-tooth count is a compromise point: it is the compromise, not a specialist answer. If plywood is more than an occasional task on your saw, an 80-tooth Hi-ATB model is the better investment.
9. FOXBC FOX10-80T 80-Tooth Ultra Finish Blade as a Starter Blade
FOXBC 10-Inch Table Saw Blade, 80-Tooth, Ultra Finish Wood Cutting, 5/8-Inch Arbor
10 inch diameter
80 teeth
0.098 inch kerf
ATB grind
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Pros
- Cuts quietly with almost no vibration and no chip-out on melamine
- Accurate cuts that stay on line across materials
- Owners report performance comparable to far costlier blades
- Handles basswood through hardwood in daily use
Cons
- One reviewer found the kerf not visibly thinner than the 40-tooth blade it replaced
- Long-term edge retention is not yet established
For a first upgrade from a factory blade, the FOXBC is a straightforward swap: 80 teeth, an ATB grind, a 0.098 inch kerf and a 5/8 inch arbor, made from high-density tungsten carbide. The thin kerf and thin plate are specified for fast, smooth cutting with low vibration, and the material is chosen for toughness and wear resistance rather than maximum finesse.
Owners are more enthusiastic than the price band usually produces. Reviewers report cuts that stay on line across different materials, very low vibration and noise, and effective chip-free results on melamine and plywood. Several describe the finish as comparable to blades costing several times more, which is the pitch, and the review pattern largely supports it for crosscutting oak, pine, moulding and sheet goods.
Two caveats are worth repeating. One reviewer measured the advertised thin kerf and did not find it visibly thinner than the 40-tooth blade it replaced, so if kerf accuracy is critical for a jig, measure it yourself rather than trusting the label. And with edge retention not yet established over years, this is a blade you can learn on and replace later rather than a lifetime purchase.
It is compatible with common 10 inch miter saws and table saws from DeWalt, Skil, Metabo and Makita, so it drops into most beginner setups without adapters. For a hand-tool-plus-one-power-tool garage, that matters more than a long specification sheet.
Who this blade suits
First-time blade buyers, students, and anyone who wants an immediate improvement over a dull factory blade without researching grind geometry. It handles melamine, moulding and finish plywood crosscuts well for what it is, and the low vibration makes it pleasant to run. It is also a good sacrificial blade to own alongside a specialist plywood cutter.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you plan to build jigs that depend on an exact kerf, because the labelled measurement has been questioned by at least one owner. It is also not the blade for flat-bottom grooves, and for a visible birch or maple panel you will get a better edge from a purpose-built Hi-ATB design. Treat it as a capable first blade rather than a final one.
10. CMT 255.080.10 ITK 80-Tooth Hi-ATB Blade for Melamine and Laminate Panels
CMT Orange Tools 255.080.10 – Ultra Fine Finishing Saw Blade D=10 B=5/8 ß=Hi-ATB 30 K=0.110 P=0.071 a=5
10 inch diameter
80 teeth
Hi-ATB 30 degree
0.110 inch kerf
Pros
- Ultra-fine finishing geometry for clean edges in veneer and plywood
- Thin 0.071 inch plate reduces drag and deflection
- Sharp carbide teeth that hold an edge well
Cons
- Fewer long-term use accounts in the reviews
- Not a combination blade for ripping work
The 255.080.10 is the compact Hi-ATB option in this roundup, and the numbers explain its appeal: 80 teeth, a 30 degree Hi-ATB grind, a 5 degree hook angle, a 0.110 inch kerf and a plate of just 0.071 inch. That plate thickness is the interesting number. A thin plate flexes less and drags less through the cut, and owners associate it directly with the clean, fine edges this blade produces in veneer and plywood.
It is specified for engineered wood, wood and glass laminate, and it is the model we would reach for when the material is melamine or glass laminate rather than softwood veneer. The 30 degree Hi-ATB bevel is steep enough to slice the face layer cleanly, and at 449 g it is one of the lighter specialist blades in this list, which is helpful on smaller saws.
The honest limitation is the depth of the review record. There are 328 reviews and a 4.7 average, but fewer accounts of long-term use than the more established models here, so the sharpening story is less well documented. It is also a crosscut design, not a ripping or combination blade, so it does not replace a rip blade in a two-blade system.
What makes it a sleeper is the combination of grind, hook and plate in a lighter package than the Freud plywood blades. If you want Hi-ATB tear-out control and also cut melamine and glass laminate regularly, this is the pairing most worth testing against your own material.
Who this blade suits
Cabinet installers and furniture builders cutting melamine, glass laminate and veneer-faced panels on a lighter saw. The 449 g weight and 0.071 inch plate make it easy to start and easy on a mid-power saw. It is also a good choice for anyone who wants Hi-ATB geometry without committing to a heavier full-kerf plate.
Who should skip it
Skip it if you rip regularly, since this is a crosscut blade and not a combination design. With fewer documented long-term accounts, it is also not the safest pick for a high-volume shop that plans around a sharpening cycle. For a shop cutting hundreds of linear feet a week, the resharpenable service offered by the other blades in this roundup is worth more than the lighter weight.
How to Choose a Plywood Blade for Your Saw
Tooth count is the first filter, and the useful range is 60 to 80 teeth. Below 40 teeth you are framing, not finishing. A general-purpose 40-tooth ATB blade will cut plywood without damaging it, but the exit edge will fuzz and the visible face will need sanding. Between 60 and 80 teeth the blade makes enough small cuts to score the face veneer continuously instead of levering it off in chunks. Above 80 teeth the gullets get shallow, the blade clogs faster in abrasive sheet goods, and the cut gets slower without getting visibly cleaner on anything short of book-matched veneer.
Grind comes second, and this is where most confusion starts. ATB means the top bevel alternates left and right between neighbouring teeth, which balances the sideways forces that would otherwise pull a blade out of true. Hi-ATB is the same idea with a much steeper bevel, usually 30 to 40 degrees, which produces a needle-like point that slices rather than scrapes. TCG, or triple chip grind, replaces the point with a flat trapezoidal top and three chamfered faces, which is far more durable in abrasive material like melamine and particle board but leaves a slightly fuzzier plywood edge. FTG, or flat top grind, is a rip-oriented pattern.
Kerf width is the third filter and the one people check too late. Kerf is simply the width of the slot the blade cuts. A thin kerf around 0.090 to 0.100 inch saves material and reduces motor load, which matters on a 15-amp jobsite saw. A full kerf around 0.125 inch removes more wood per pass but gives a stiffer, more stable cut in a heavier saw. If you have already built a sled, a fence or a crosscut jig, the blade kerf has to match it. If you have not decided yet, thin kerf is the safer default because it works on more saws.
Hook angle is the fourth. A positive hook, 15 degrees or more, leans the tooth forward and produces a fast, aggressive cut, which is what you want in solid wood. A low or zero hook, 0 to 5 degrees, makes the tooth almost vertical, so it shears the face veneer instead of pushing down into it. Plywood blades live at the low-hook end. That is the whole reason they look so aggressive at the tip.
Now match the blade to the saw class. On a portable jobsite saw, favour a thin kerf with a light plate, such as the Freud LU79R010 or the WEN BL1080, and keep the rip fence aligned before you start. On a contractor saw, either kerf works, and a 60-tooth ATB crosscutter is a good all-round companion to a plywood blade. On a cabinet saw with a 3 hp or larger motor, the heavier full-kerf options like the Freud LU80R010 or the Forrest Woodworker II are at their best, because the motor can absorb the load. If your saw has a riving knife and a properly adjusted one, sheet goods become far less dangerous; if the saw does not have one, cutting full sheets deserves a second look at your setup before anything else.
The zero-clearance insert is the accessory people treat as optional and then wonder why the bottom of the panel chips. The insert sits level with the table surface, and a factory insert usually has an opening wider than your blade, which leaves the bottom edge of the sheet unsupported exactly as the teeth exit. A thin plywood shim and a fresh bit of hardboard let you machine a new insert with a hole sized to the kerf plus about one sixty-fourth of an inch. Cut it in two passes with the blade raised, back the nut with scrap, and test with a sacrificial offcut. The change in bottom-edge quality is the single largest improvement available to most saw owners, and it costs a piece of scrap material.
Finally, plan for sharpening rather than replacement. A Hi-ATB blade has finer points than a standard ATB, and those points are what make it work, so they wear down sooner. If you buy a brand that offers resharpening and rebalancing, treat the first sharpening as a scheduled service, not a failure. If you run very high volume, compare the cost per cut across a few thousand feet of edge instead of looking at the purchase price alone, because the cheaper blade that cannot be sharpened is often the more expensive one over a year. For sheet-goods work on a different machine entirely, our picks for the best cordless circular saws for plywood cover the handheld side of the same problem.
Frequently Asked Questions
What type of blade is best for cutting plywood?
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A 60 to 80 tooth carbide blade with a Hi-ATB grind and a low or zero hook angle. The high tooth count makes many small cuts so the blade scores the face veneer continuously, and the steep bevel shears the fragile surface layer instead of levering it off. This is the pattern used by every specialist plywood blade in this roundup.
How many teeth should a plywood blade have?
Between 60 and 80 teeth for finish work on visible panels. Below 40 teeth you get rip and crosscut performance with a fuzzy exit edge, and above 80 teeth the gullets get shallow enough that the blade clogs quickly in abrasive sheet goods and cuts more slowly without a visibly cleaner result.
Is a 140 tooth blade good for plywood?
No. A 140-tooth blade is a paneling and ultra-fine crosscut design intended for thin solid timber and mouldings. On plywood its gullets are too shallow to clear dust and chip, so it heats up, clogs and burns the edge of the panel instead of cutting it cleanly. Stick to 60 to 80 teeth for sheet goods.
How can I cut plywood without it chipping?
First, fit a zero-clearance insert cut to your blade kerf so the bottom of the panel is supported as the teeth exit. Second, use a 60 to 80 tooth Hi-ATB blade with a low hook angle. Third, set blade height so only the teeth project about one inch above the panel, which limits downward force. Fourth, feed steadily rather than forcing the cut, and support the offcut so it cannot pinch the blade.
Should I buy a thin kerf or a full kerf plywood blade?
Thin kerf saves material and reduces motor load, which makes it the safer choice for a 15-amp jobsite saw. Full kerf removes more wood per pass but is stiffer and more stable in a saw with a 3 hp or larger motor. The only firm rule is that if you have already built a sled or jig, the blade kerf has to match the slot in that jig.
Do I need a zero-clearance insert for plywood?
It is the single biggest improvement most table saw owners can make. A factory insert usually has an opening wider than the blade, leaving the bottom edge of the sheet unsupported exactly where the teeth exit, which causes chip-out that no blade change will fully fix. A plywood shim and a hardboard blank let you machine a replacement insert to your kerf in a few minutes.
The Blade to Buy First
If you read nothing else, start with the WEN BL1080. Eighty carbide teeth on an ultra-thin 0.1 inch kerf give you the biggest jump from a factory blade on any saw, and it is the most-reviewed product here with a 4.7 average across more than sixteen hundred owners. Pair it with a zero-clearance insert you cut yourself and most of the tear-out problem disappears on the first sheet.
Buy something else if your situation is different. On a small 15-amp saw, take the Freud LU79R010 for genuine Hi-ATB tear-out control at a kerf your motor can drive. For visible birch, maple or veneered panels in a larger saw, the Freud LU80R010 is the specialist answer, and the CMT 255.080.10 does the same job with a lighter plate if melamine and glass laminate are your main materials. If you need grooves as well as crosscuts, the CMT 256.050.10 is the only blade in this list with a flat-bottom tooth.
And if you mostly cut rough construction sheet, do not overpay for teeth you do not need. A 40-tooth ATB blade such as the WEN Apex or the Forrest Woodworker II will outlast an 80-tooth finish blade on that material many times over, and both can be resharpened rather than discarded. Whichever you choose, match the kerf to your saw, fit the insert, and keep the edge sharp. That is the 2026 answer: right grind for the job, right kerf for the motor, and a supported cut at the bottom.